Showing posts with label aberlady nature reserve. Show all posts
Showing posts with label aberlady nature reserve. Show all posts

Sunday, 13 March 2011

To Aberlady and Beyond!

I first visited Aberlady Nature Reserve last year when I was feeling raw and emotional and hurt and grieving. A wee while there and I felt my spirits lift a bit and my strength to return a little bit.



So here I am again, a year on, raw and emotional and hurt and grieving. Seems I'm not quite as strong as I thought I was, but nor am I a victim. I will be back and, to that end, a trip to Aberlady was the perfect boost... as well as a trip back to Bourne to see my really fab friends Margaret & Paul, but more of that in another post!

I took the train up to Edinburgh last Tuesday to be met in the rain by my old pal John. A flatmate from our university days over 10 years ago, we've kept in touch on and off over the years and how glad am I of that? Very glad indeed. I don't know if he can be bottled, but he really is such a great tonic!!!

Having spent a few days away with Margaret and Paul, I was already feeling lifted and rested and on my way back to peace, but a couple more days with John put the cherry on the top. We laughed, I cried, we laughed again, we ate, drank & laughed a bit more and set the world to rights and talked & laughed some more. Perfick!

Arriving in the dark and in the rain, I could only get a rough idea of the view John has to look at every day. It looked good, even in the dismal light... but wow, what a view in the daylight!



John is warden at the Nature Reserve and is fortunate enough to have an apartment that looks out across the estuary, across the old shipwreck and across the salt marsh beyond, where North Berwick Law stands in majesty above this beautiful, ever-changing landscape.

The rain had stopped, the sun was out and it would have been extremely rude not to go out and embrace the wind as it whipped along the coast. We filled a flask with coffee and a box with rolls and John's home baking (Yum! He never did that when we shared a flat in Aberdeen!!), and weatherproofed & hunger-proofed, we set off for a walk round the reserve.

The salt marshes across the far side of the bay lead on to an extensive dune system, with back dunes and ponds and a fantastically shaped landscape that reminds me of a volcanic crater clothed in grass!



Home to reptiles, amphibians, mammals, invertebrates, insects and birds, this wonderful ecosystem is so incredibly beautiful but also incredibly fragile. John and his team are working tirelessly to control the dunes from the threat of invasion by non-native species... the attractive but rampant sea buckthorn to name but one!

Another threat of invasion was thwarted by these huge blocks that, although invaders themselves, are now so much a part of the landscape that they are also protectors and holders of their own small ecosystems, as lichens, mosses and small plants colonise the concrete!



Placed here in the war to protect the land from enemy tanks that could be landed from the shore, these blocks are so weathered and bedded in that they have completely embraced the natural world. Rejecting manmade ideas of war and destruction, these memorials of war now offer peace and new life. It's part of the magic of Aberlady Nature Rerserve. It really is!

Twice now I've visited the reserve when my world has crumpled, and twice now I've been restored and revived by the magic that's here. Peace and new life, here I come!!

Walking further along the coast, the landscape changes with every turn and, rather dramatically, with just about every high tide!



The rocks are astonishing, not just in beauty, but in their vast differences. All colours, shapes and sizes, the rocks represent so many different forms and types that a geologist would be in perpetual bliss! Carved by wind and rain, sea and sand, smoothed by years of exposure to all the elements, the rocks here take on really fantastic and surreal features. Is it any wonder myths and legends are born when you come across such grotesque and pained faces as these?



Blimey, my problems are nothing compared to theirs! See, I really do feel better already!!!

John pointed out this huge rock and said that until the winter it had been buried by sand dunes for who knows how many years! Winter storms swept a huge section off the end of a the dunes to reveal this and other rocks for the first time in centuries.



How exciting is that? I think it's great! Apparently this particular rock was a beautiful green colour when it was first exposed, but has now muted to a still very attractive silvery green. I wonder what it looked like before it was buried in the sand, and how many people have sat on it and looked out to sea?

As we walked, the landscape changed in every bay. Looking out to the island of Fidra, we sat and ate our lunch and just revelled in the rawness of the day.



The wind was biting, but it was perfect. Blowing a gale through our troubled thoughts and frazzled minds, all negative emotions dispersed on the wind as easily as dandelion seeds blow away from the clock. Time heals, it's true, but there's nothing quite like a good sea breeze to get the colour back in your cheeks and a hearty stride back in your step!



12 miles & 7 hours after setting off from John's front door, we arrived in North Berwick. A beautiful day, a stunning walk and great company. I could do with a LOT more of that!!!! Thanks John, it was ace and I am so grateful to you for helping me through and making me laugh and getting me back on to the road again. You should be available on the NHS!!!

Rebecca, X

Saturday, 3 July 2010

Ambling about at Aberlady!!

Just about 20 miles east of Edinburgh, and signposted off the A1, is a real hidden gem. Aberlady local nature reserve was actually the first in Britain, designated in 1952 and now also a site of special scientific interest (SSSI).



It is managed by East Lothian Council and, I am very proud to say, my friend John! I'm not so proud to say that in all the time I lived in Scotland I never once went along to the reserve. It was, admittedly, a long way from where I used to stay but that's no excuse. I have now made up for past failings however, and paid a visit to the reserve on Tuesday before I continued south back across the border and into England.

I didn't get to see my pal, but I did leave a not very cryptic hello for him on the sightings sheet before I left! I was going to leave a note that I'd spotted a plastic bag on the reserve but thought I'd better not in the end. There is a story attached to that and John will know what I mean, but if anyone else reads the sightings sheet then they'd think I was being facetious and cross it out!!

Mr H and myself were both at university in Aberdeen together... crikey, just realised that it was last century, lol, and we shared a flat as well as a love of all things ornithological. John was far more knowledgeable than me (and obviously still is) as I only joined the University Bird Club as a way of getting across Scotland and seeing the place. I quickly caught the bug for birding though, and have many smashing memories of many smashing trips!!

My trip to Aberlady was tinged with sadness however. I was feeling really blue for having had to leave the dog in Scotland. He was never mine to keep, but to give him back hurt like hell and is still hurting now. So it was with a heavy heart that I actually set off across the wooden bridge and as the Scottish author Nigel Tranter put it, into 'Enchantment'.



As it turns out, dogs aren't allowed on the reserve between April and July anyway, so I could amble about and not keep thinking 'Hogy would have loved it here' and other such mournful thoughts. He would have loved it there, I've no doubt, but at least the knowledge that I couldn't have taken him if I'd had him made it easier to walk and look ahead to life without him. Not much easier, but a bit easier. By the time I'd returned to the car, my heart felt a bit lighter and I did start to feel a lot better... 'Enchantment' indeed!!

Covering 582 hectares (which is 1,439 acres for those of us who still work in old money), Aberlady is a stunning mix of tidal sand, mud flats, dune systems, pioneer salt marsh, and also has the wee Marl Loch



as well as the Peffer Burn and its estuarine landscape. With a backdrop of industrial Edinburgh to the west,



and the golf course to the east, Aberlady local nature reserve manages to squeeze rare and splendid isolation into a modern age of bustle and business. From the moment you cross the bridge, the noise of the road and the 21st century slowly dissipates into a new world of rustling grasses, birdsong, crickets and, eventually, the lapping of waves on the shore.

The footpath winds its way through the marshes and you are accompanied along the way by hundreds of butterflies flitting along from flower to flower and leaf to leaf.



There are 15 different species of butterfly here, and they flutter alongside the path as if you're walking into a Disney film!! To add to the slightly fairytale feel, the path then leads you through a tunnel of sea buckthorn that is cut in such a way you could be walking into a set for a Lord of the Rings movie or something!



Once through the tunnel, all sounds of the road have disappeared and you're in a truly magical place. The wildflowers are absolutely stunning, the diversity is wonderful and is clearly appreciated by the number of different birds that sing and chirrup as you walk by.

The walk up to the beach at Gullane Point is roughly one and a half miles, and if you go in the middle of the day in the middle of summer as I did, make sure you have plenty of high factor sunscreen with you!! I couldn't reach my back to put on the factor 30 and came back looking like I'd laid down in a blast furnace for half an hour!!!



Popping over the top of the dunes to the beach pops you back into the 21st century again, but there are still reminders of the past even here!



Fences stick out of dunes where the wind blown sand is reclaiming its lands, and out on the beach at low tide is an even stranger reminder of days gone by... a submarine being reclaimed by the sea!



A submarine in death as it was in its life!! I was fascinated by the different shapes and stood for a while thinking about how small it looked and how it must have been to have worked on her, when I realised that the water was creeping back in and was taking her back for another few hours until releasing her again at the next low tide. I stopped a while longer just to get a shot as low to the water as I could... I'd already got my backside wet when I squatted down for an earlier photo (which is how I noticed that the tide was coming in, lol), so I sat right down in the water for this one!



The things I do to bring you a photo!!! Getting a wet bottom in the pursuit of photography is one thing, walking back across the sands in wet trousers is another thing altogether! The beach here has a few posts and pillars scattered about,



but eventually I found a lovely big bleached driftwood log to sit on while I hung my wet trousers up on a post to dry.



It didn't take long, and I soon returned back the way that I came and back into real life again... and just as if to emphasise the end to my few hours in enchantment, a toad crossed in front of me under the buckthorn tunnel on his way to Marl Loch.



A fitting end to a few hours in fairyland!! If you happen to be in the area, look out for the bridge across to the reserve and let your dreams take you somewhere else for a while...

Nigel Tranter called it the 'Footbridge to Enchantment', it is!!

Read more about the reserve here and put a wee circle round it on your road map, it's a very special little place. http://www.aberlady.org/Nature%20reserve.html

Rebecca, x
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